Photos courtesy of Borthwick Castle
Mary Queen of Scots often came here to visit her friend, the 5th Lord Borthwick, and to be near her future third husband, the earl of Bothwell, who was master of Crichton Castle only two miles away. Accused of the murder of Mary’s husband Darnley, Bothwell was formally acquitted by the Privy Council. An arrogant sort of fellow, he practically kidnapped Mary to Dunbar Castle, hastened a divorce from his own wife, and married Mary. The populace immediately rebelled. Mary, under suspicion for the murder of her husband and condemned for her new marriage, had to flee from Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh to Borthwick Castle. The mob found its way to Borthwick, but Mary managed to escape disguised as a page. She never saw Bothwell again (he died a prisoner in Denmark) and spent the rest of her life as a prisoner of her cousin Elizabeth I in England.
During the Civil War of 1650, the 9th Lord Borthwick, a Royalist, refused to hand over his castle to Cromwell’s forces. Cromwell’s cannons opened fire. Although the fourteen-foot-thick walls protected the interior from damage by fire, parts of the battlements were fragmented (you can still see the scars today). Borthwick finally surrendered, and his great castle was spared.
Pamela’s Perspective
For an authentic castle experience, this is the real thing. Borthwick’s knowledgeable staff can regale you with endless historical anecdotes about this terrific castle.
Borthwick has no elevator, and there are many steps (the staff will help with luggage). Ask for a lower level room if you need it.
Borthwick Castle
A 15th-century castle
Contact
North Middleton
Midlothian EH23 4Q4
Tel: ++44 (0)1875 820514
Fax: ++44 (0)1875 821702
Hotel website
Fast facts
10 rooms
Double rooms: £150–200
Gatehouse Tower: £140–160
Deluxe Rooms: £210–250
Rates include Continental breakfast
and tax.
Open: mid-March through December
Getting there
About 12 miles south of Edinburgh on A7 is the small town of North Middleton. Turn left here onto a country lane. In 3/4 mile, after passing a school and Borthwick Church, enter the private roadway leading to the castle gates.
What to do
Nearby: archery; game and clay pigeon shooting; fishing; golf; falconry; horseback riding; Edinburgh
Weddings
Yes. Civil and religious ceremonies. Exclusive use possible.
Reached via a narrow lane under a canopy of trees, this baronial keep, with twin towers measuring 110 feet high, has been almost continually occupied since it was built in 1430. Its austere exterior belies the warmth and atmosphere found inside.
Almost the entire first floor is taken up by a great hall with a high, barreled Gothic ceiling and minstrels gallery. At the end of the hall, a 24-foot-high, hooded fireplace provides warmth and comfort. Four narrow, curving stone staircases wind up to the guest rooms and down to the dungeons and cellars. To one side is a small chapel where Mary Queen of Scots prayed. Walls in many rooms are unpainted stone.
Guest rooms are furnished in period style. Both Mary Queen of Scots bedchamber and the earl of Bothwell room have four-poster canopy beds. Bathrooms are small and set in alcoves with thick walls and low doorways—giving the feeling of being enclosed in a cozy cave. Some guest rooms have alcove areas perfect to curl up in with a book. Long, narrow windows provide small framed views of the bucolic countryside.
Dining is by candlelight and firelight in the rustic great hall. Reservations are required. You eat at a long table with the other guests, and usually a choice of two entrées is offered.
Something special
Sleep in the same bedchamber as Mary Queen of Scots.